Skincare in Your 30s and 40s: Pandora Long on What Actually Works

Your skincare routine can start to feel a little more complicated as you get older. Skin changes in your 30s and 40s can bring new concerns, from pigmentation and fine lines to hormonal breakouts, while an endless stream of advice online can make it difficult to know what your skin needs.

London facialist Pandora Long knows that feeling well. Having struggled with acne herself from a young age, Pandora went on to build a career helping clients understand and care for their skin. Here, she shares what really matters as your skin changes, from the essentials worth keeping in your routine to the treatments worth investing in.

Your own skin journey has played such a big part in shaping your career. Can you tell us about your experience with acne and how it led you to becoming a facialist?

I started struggling with acne when I was around 11 years old, and it continued on and off well into my mid-20s. As a result, I became fascinated, probably even a little obsessed, with skincare and treatments from a young age.

I would spend hours after school researching different skincare brands, ingredients and the latest breakthrough treatments - desperate to find a cure for my acne, scarring and pigmentation. This was long before skincare became as mainstream as it is today, so the options were much more limited. Over the years, as more people began taking an interest in skincare, I naturally became the person everyone turned to for advice. It started with friends, then friends' mums, then friends of friends. If someone had a skin concern, I was usually the first person they asked - and so my path into the industry seemed like an obvious one.

Looking back, I would have done anything during that time to have unproblematic skin, but to have experienced that journey myself means I can empathise with my clients on a much deeper level as I understand they are experiencing - both mentally and physically.

You had a corporate career in accounting before entering the beauty industry. What inspired you to take the leap and open your own clinic, and how did you find the confidence to start a new chapter?

I spent years teetering on the edge of burnout, as so many people do when they're climbing the corporate ladder. While I enjoyed aspects of corporate accounting, I always found myself wondering what it would be like to build a career around something I was genuinely passionate about. Everything came to a head when I realised I was on a path that I would likely be following for another 30-plus years. Around the same time, I was working under a particularly toxic manager who pushed me to breaking point, and one of my closest friends had just taken the leap and started her own business. Seeing someone close to me do it made the possibility suddenly feel much more real.

That said, confidence wasn't something that came easy to me - there were plenty of tears and sleepless nights. I focused on the one thing I knew I could control, which was becoming as knowledgeable and skilled as I possibly could. I invested in my education, practiced on friends and family as much as I could and made sure I was learning and reading constantly. My rationale was if I truly specialised without cutting corners then surely I couldn't fail. One book outside of skin that had a huge impact on me was Feel The Fear And Do It Anyway by Susan Jeffers, It helped to break down and conquer my anxiety surrounding starting my own business and taught me that fear isn't a sign you're making the wrong decision - it's often a sign you're doing something that matters.

Skin concerns can affect much more than our appearance. What have you learnt from your own experience and from your clients about the connection between skin and self-confidence?

From my own experience I know that having skin concerns can be all consuming and effect how you show up in the world. That's why, as a facialist, I don't just treat the skin in front of me - I treat the person attached to it.

"I don't just treat the skin in front of me – I treat the person attached to it."

I would deliberately make myself smaller in a room so less people would notice my acne. I see that same emotional impact in my clients every day. I have clients who won't wear a bikini on holiday because they're self-conscious about post-partum skin laxity. Others won't leave the house without make-up, even if they're just popping to the supermarket, because they're worried about bumping into someone they know. For many people, it goes far beyond vanity - some have lived with these insecurities for so long that they can't remember what it feels like not to think about their skin every day. That's what makes this work so rewarding. Of course, I love seeing improvements in someone's skin, but what I really love is seeing the changes that happen beyond that. When a client tells me they've gone to the beach without covering up, left the house makeup-free for the first time in years, or simply stopped thinking about their skin all day, that's the real transformation.

What happens to our skin in our 30s and 40s, and what do you wish more women understood about these changes?

Many people start to notice changes to their skin in their 30s and 40s because this is when our body's natural repair processes begin to slow down. Collagen and elastin production gradually decrease, cell turnover becomes slower, and the skin starts to lose hydration more easily. As a result, people often notice that their skin feels less firm, fine lines become more visible, pigmentation appears after years of sun exposure, however breakouts can still occur due to hormonal changes - something that feels like you should have left behind in your teens and 20s.

One of the biggest misconceptions is that these changes happen overnight or that they simply come down to internal ageing. In reality, they're the result of a combination of factors including genetics, UV exposure, lifestyle, stress, hormones and overall skin health over many years.

I also wish people understood that healthy skin doesn't have to mean flawless skin. The goal isn't to erase every line or pore, but to support the skin so it functions at its best. Consistency with skincare, protecting the skin from UV damage, and choosing treatments that stimulate the skin's natural regenerative processes will always have a greater long-term impact than chasing quick fixes.

There's so much conflicting skincare advice online. What are the biggest skincare mistakes you see people making, and how can we tell the difference between products that genuinely work and clever marketing?

I think social media has been amazing in many ways - it's made skincare education more digestible and accessible, but the downside is it's also become a hub of misinformation, where trends often spread much faster than evidence.

I think the one of the biggest misconceptions I see is that there's a 'one-size-fits-all' approach. Just because a product, routine or treatment has worked miracles for one person online it doesn't necessarily mean it's suited to you. I have an analogy that if you saw an influencer or friend wearing a dress or a top on Instagram, you may expect that it might not fit your body in the same way. Skin is no different - it's influenced by genetics, hormones, lifestyle, age and environment, so what works for one person may do very little - or even cause problems - for someone else.

Another common mistake is believing that more is always better. More active ingredients, more products and more steps don't necessarily lead to better skin. In fact, some of the most damaged skin barriers I see belong to people who are trying to do everything.

"Some of the most damaged skin barriers I see belong to people who are trying to do everything."

When it comes to separating skincare that genuinely delivers results from clever marketing, I always encourage people to look beyond the packaging and the viral claims. Ask whether there's credible evidence behind the ingredients, whether the product is appropriate for your skin concerns, and whether the person recommending it has the knowledge to explain why it works - not just that it's trending.

If you stripped your skincare routine back to the essentials, what would you say most women actually need?

This is quite a difficult question because the essentials really do vary depending on someone's skin type, concerns and goal and there's no single routine that suits everyone.

That said, if I had to strip skincare back to the absolute basics, I'd recommend three non-negotiables: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and a broad-spectrum SPF. Cleansing removes the day's build-up without disrupting the skin barrier, moisturiser helps keep that barrier strong and functioning well, and daily SPF is the single most effective step we can take to protect our skin from premature ageing, pigmentation and skin damage.

If someone wanted to build on those foundations, I'd then add a well-formulated exfoliant once or twice a week, depending on their skin, and targeted serums for the morning and evening to address their individual concerns, whether that's pigmentation, acne, sensitivity or ageing.

I always remind people that consistency is far more important than complexity. You don't need a 10-step routine to achieve healthy skin. A handful of well-chosen products, used consistently and suited to your skin is all you need.

"Consistency is far more important than complexity. You don't need a 10-step routine to achieve healthy skin."

With so many treatments promising transformative results, from LED and advanced facials to the latest trends, how can we decide which skincare treatments are genuinely worth investing in?

I always recommend looking for treatments with good clinical evidence behind them, delivered by someone who takes the time to assess your skin properly. A good practitioner should explain why they're recommending a treatment, what results you can realistically expect, how many sessions you'll likely need, and whether it's actually the best use of your money.

The same applies to at-home devices such as LED masks - always make sure the clinical evidence is backed. If this is the case, then before investing I still encourage people to be honest with themselves about whether they'll realistically stick to the routine. If a device needs to be used for 15 minutes, five times a week, but you know you'll struggle to find the time, it's unlikely to deliver the results you're hoping for.

What does your own skincare routine look like on a normal day?

My skincare routine does evolve quite regularly because trying new products is part of my job. I want to understand how products perform before I recommend them to my clients, so I'm constantly testing different formulations and ingredients.

That said, I've found a structure that works really well for my skin and I tend to stick to that. In the morning I focus on hydration and protection, and the evening is when I introduce targeted actives. I would say my overall focus is always maintaining healthy, happy and resilient skin rather than chasing perfection - even if this means I get the odd blemish now and then.

Beyond skincare, what daily habits help you feel your best and support healthy skin?

I've definitely learned not to overcomplicate things. I've found recently that social media makes you feel like you always should be doing more when it comes to wellness and it's easy to become obsessive and fall down a rabbit hole. I prioritise sleep wherever I can, I eat predominantly a whole food and balanced diet and I make a conscious effort to stay hydrated. Movement is incredibly important for me, not just for physical health but for mental wellbeing too. I do Pilates at home most days, and living in London means I naturally clock up around 10,000 steps on most days without really thinking about it.

That said, I don't believe healthy skin should come at the expense of enjoying your life. I love going out for dinner, having a few drinks with friends and the occasional late night. Looking after yourself consistently most of the time, while still making room for the things that bring you joy, is a far more sustainable approach than striving for perfection. I think that's true for skincare - and for life in general.

QUICKFIRE ROUND

What's one skincare "rule" you think everyone should break? That everyone should be using vitamin C in the morning and a Vitamin A (retinoid) in the evening. It's definitely not for everyone - you need to find the ingredients that suit you.

My daily non-negotiable is… double-cleansing.

I feel most empowered… at the end of a busy clinic day, when I've hopefully helped to empower others through their skin.

My favourite way to reset is… microneedling with PDRN. The glow is unmatched - it's the ultimate skin reset.

The best life lesson I've learned so far is… You can't plan for everything - coming from someone who likes to try and control every outcome. I still set goals and work hard towards them, but I hold onto them a little more lightly. The surprises are often the best part.

If you could give one piece of advice to your younger self, what would it be? Don't wait until you feel completely ready - just go for it.

Shop Pandora's Edit

Pandora's recommendations span results-driven skincare, considered wellness tools and the daily rituals she returns to again and again. Here are some of the things she loves.

• The Skinny Confidential Ice Roller
• Monday Muse The Juice Daily Serum
  
• Pilates by Bryony App
  
• Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier

Browse Pandora's full edit →

About Pandora Long

Pandora Long is a London-based facialist and skin expert specialising in results-driven, non-invasive treatments. Having struggled with acne, scarring and hyperpigmentation from her early teens, she developed a deeply personal relationship with skincare long before it became a career. After leaving corporate accounting, she retrained with a focus on the science behind skin – studying anatomy, physiology and the evidence base for advanced treatments before opening her own clinic. She is known for her considered, no-shortcuts approach and for treating the person as much as the skin. Follow Pandora on Instagram @pandoralong.

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