Most of us have stood in front of a bathroom shelf that's somehow grown to ten steps, convinced that more means better. We follow the trends, buy the launches and find ourselves wondering why our skin still doesn't feel quite right.
Sjaniël Turrell has worked as a makeup artist for nearly three decades, using exclusively natural and organic skincare and makeup both personally and professionally. Her approach cuts through the noise without dismissing it – from understanding what different ingredients actually do to knowing when your skin needs less, rather than more.
We asked Sjaniël what your skin actually needs from your products, and what you can let go of.
How did you first get into skincare and makeup, and what led you to focus on clean beauty and formulation?
I actually got into makeup by accident. In 1996 I was living in the US as an au-pair and needed to do an educational course as part of my visa requirements. I found a random makeup artistry course and really enjoyed it. Fast forward to 2012, living in London and studying nutritional therapy, I started working with natural and organic products as the in-house makeup artist on weekends in Marylebone at Content Beauty, the original exclusively clean beauty store in London. From there my kit has been completely focused on clean brands and I've been doing that for 14 years now.
Beauty feels more overwhelming than ever, especially with social media and constant new trends. Are we overcomplicating our routines?
Definitely. I see so many unnecessary products, steps and 'must-haves'. Good skin really is down to good health and basic skincare routines. I'm not a product junkie - I love beautiful skin oils and hydrating serums and am always trying to find the best cleansers because there are so many luscious natural skincare brands on the market, but three or four steps is more than enough for healthy, glowing skin.
"Good skin really is down to good health and basic skincare routines."
With so many claims like 'clean', 'natural' and 'dermatologist-approved', how can we cut through the noise and choose products that actually work for our skin?
It's confusing and challenging for the consumer, because unless you can understand most of an INCI (product ingredients) list, it's hard to know who is just selling you jargon. Unfortunately, none of these words such as 'conscious' are properly certified to mean anything, so they can be used pretty much anywhere. A good starting point is to look out for COSMOS, Ecocert or Soil Association certifications, but some of the best brands I know aren't necessarily certified, because they're independent and it's expensive to do. Also, not all confusing ingredients are bad - the scientific names for some ingredients sound crazy but can still be a beneficial ingredient. I also often see amazing ingredients at the lower end of an ingredients list, but the majority (the top end) is mostly fillers such as silicones or vinyl plastics and it feels like you're being ripped off.
Are there any misconceptions or generalisations around 'clean' or 'natural' beauty that you often see?
People who have bought into the mainstream hype of medicalised or transformative products often think that 'natural' products are sub-par. I find the opposite to be true - plant-based products enhance the health, look and feel of your skin because your body understands how to use them, like vitamins for the skin. Plants are powerful and most synthetic ingredients are made to mimic what plants do. The difference with synthetics is that they can override the natural rhythm of the skin and it might work well for a time, but in the long-term, it isn't serving your skin health to be optimal.
"Plants are powerful and most synthetic ingredients are made to mimic what plants do."
Skin barrier health is everywhere right now. Why is it so important, especially as we age?
Your skin barrier is your first line of defence for your skin, which is your body's largest organ. Everything in the body works in synergy with the rest, so keeping that barrier healthy and happy is very important to having a well functioning immune system and keeping your skin microbiome intact.
What are the biggest signs our skin barrier is damaged, and how do we repair it?
For most people the first sign will be sudden sensitivities to products that they've always used without any issues. You may suddenly have redness or irritation from things like sun exposure or water. Or simply having burning or itching sensations without any visible rash or redness. You often see this happening after pregnancy or long illnesses - the skin becomes extra sensitive to stimuli. Another problem is that people over exfoliate often or do laser treatments or acid peels - this is essentially stripping your barrier and too much, too often is detrimental to healthy skin.
If someone wanted to strip everything back and build a routine from scratch, what would you recommend?
My most basic recommendation is this: find a good, gentle cream or gel cleanser (something that does not make your skin feel taught after washing), use only an organic muslin cloth as your exfoliation to remove cleanser residue and then when your skin is still damp, massage in an organic jojoba oil-based skin oil (or light, fragrance free, hydrating moisturiser if you don't like face oil). If you really need hydration, add a light hyaluronic acid based serum. That's all you need - do that for 6-8 weeks before you add in other products and extra serums or treatments.
Where is it worth investing in skincare and makeup, and are there any areas where formulation or performance makes a noticeable difference, versus where we can save without compromising results?
I think it's definitely worth investing in a very good, naturally formulated cleanser - a good cleanser is the base of your routine and sets the tone for the rest of your skincare's efficacy. Whereas, a simple organic jojoba oil can be as effective as a very expensive face oil. I also love a face spritz in between cleansing and moisturising, but a simple rose water can do the job.
For makeup, it is not brand dependent, but more based on product efficacy and there are makeup products that are very affordable that are great, but with certain products to get an effective finish and wear, you have to invest in the products that work for your personal needs. This is why I consult personally with individuals to help them find the products that work best for them and eliminate all that trial and error wastage.
What brands or products do you consistently go back to, and why?
There are too many incredible brands to mention on the market now, but I am a loyal customer. Once I find something that works for me, I stick to it and don't always try to find better options.
Twelve Beauty has been my go-to for cleanser, spritz and serums for a decade - I just love their fragrance-free formulations.
For skin oils I love MV Skintherapy - they are all amazing and so good on skin, though there are so many amazing skin oils on the market now.
My number-one brand for tinted moisturisers and foundations is Madara - they just get skin cosmetics. I rate their products above all the other "bigger" brands.
For powder-based products such as blushes and highlighters, RMS Beauty have totally outdone themselves on formulations.
And Ilia are amazing for their multi-sticks and they have one of the best mascaras on the market.
I also always go back to Inika for face powders, which I use mostly on sets as I seldom use face powder myself, but they're ideal for long wearing situations.
As a makeup artist, what products or techniques work best for real life, not just for camera-ready skin?
Products that are not over pigmented are definitely better for real-life scenarios - it's harder to 'make a mistake' or put too much of something when you have a light touch product. I love anything you can simply use your fingers for. Real life means being able to do your makeup really quickly and easily, so I love cream-based products for everyday or something that you can almost apply without worrying that it needs to go on perfectly. Less is always more in real life, because we see one another in daylight, not harsh or bright filming lights (which looks wonderful when you're filming a reel for IG, but just step into natural light with that makeup on and see what it really looks like). Being able to still see skin texture and yes, some imperfections, often looks so much healthier and youthful than an opaquely covered face.
"Less is always more in real life, because we see one another in daylight, not harsh or bright filming lights."
QUICKFIRE ROUND
My everyday skincare and makeup essentials are… Twelve Beauty Cleanser and Plant Perfection Gel Serum, a good face oil, Madara City CC SPF Tinted Moisturiser, Green People Volumising Mascara and a natural tinted lip balm such as Burt's Bees or Fruu Colour Balms.
A product I can't be without in my kit or routine is… Twelve Beauty Ideal Moisture Level Serum - it is the best skin primer I know of and makes makeup application look so much better.
My daily non-negotiable is… At this stage of my life, organic matcha with some collagen powder added in - it is the only thing that gets me going without the jitters.
When I need some self-care, I… force myself to read a book. It puts you at a different pace and gives your brain a creative break in an actually restful way (not pretend rest like endless scrolling) - I don't do it nearly enough.
The best life lesson I've learned so far is… nothing in life will always go as planned. Your resilience depends on how well you can stay with discomfort when things don't feel great and just keep moving.
If you could give one piece of advice to your younger self, what would it be? Don't be afraid to have a voice and embody your own truth - you're allowed to have an opinion at any age.
Shop Sjaniël's edit
Sjaniël's recommendations span clean beauty staples, trusted supplements and the everyday essentials she returns to again and again. Here are some of the things she loves.
- Twelve Beauty Purifying Cleansing Beauty Cream
- RMS ReDimension Hydra Powder Blush
- Wild Nutrition – Food-Grown Supplements
- The Women by Kristin Hannah
About Sjaniël Turrell
Sjaniël is a London-based makeup artist and nutritional therapist with nearly three decades of experience, working exclusively with clean and organic beauty brands for the last 14 years. Known as the makeup artist for people who don't wear makeup, she works with private clients and brides looking to move to more conscious beauty regimes – as well as public figures including Ella Mills, Jasmine Hemsley, Melissa Hemsley and Amelia Freer. She consults one-on-one to help people find fewer, better products that work for their skin and their life. Follow Sjaniël on Instagram @sjaniel.
Want more expert insight?
This page contains affiliate links. We only recommend brands we genuinely believe in. If you purchase via our links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Leave a comment